Baleines, Dauphins et Albatros : les trésors de Kaikoura


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Nous voici à Kaikoura, dernière étape de notre grande boucle en camping-car. Le soleil est au rendez-vous, ce que nous apprécions particulièrement pour lutter contre la fatigue accumulée. Mais les rencontres que nous faisons n’ont pas de prix ! Nous prenons un peu de repos en cette matinée du 3 mars, mais trépignons quand même d’impatience à l’idée de rencontrer les baleines l’après-midi.


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Le moment tant attendu

Nous voici sur le chemin de l’établissement qui organise les sorties en mer. Après avoir profité du spa, Ludo réalise, seulement après le repas, qu’il va lui falloir faire de la place sur ses cartes mémoires… Le temps de résoudre le problème, nous nous retrouvons à courir dans l’artère principale de la ville. Nous finirons par passer à travers un trou dans le grillage du camping concurrent au nôtre, afin d’être en temps et en heure au guichet. Pour rien au monde, nous ne voudrions manquer le rendez-vous qui nous attend. On en connaît un dont c’était la seule exigence pour ses deux semaines de vacances. Quant à la deuxième, lorsqu’il nous est demandé si nous avons un problème avec le fait d’avoir le mal de mer (creux de 2 mètres prévus pour l’après-midi), elle a à peine cillé !

Autant dire que nous sommes tous les quatre très motivés. Après un documentaire et un petit trajet en bus, nous voilà à l’embarquement… Nous observons la tête des personnes qui descendent du bateau voisin, et ils n’ont pas l’air très souriants… mer agité ou déception ???

Sensations fortes

Une fois à bord, de nombreuses consignes nous sont données, notamment sur «  comment vomir correctement »… Ça promet !

Puis, nous voilà partis. Nous comprenons très vite que l’observation des baleines ne sera pas le seul moment phare de l’après-midi. L’unique fait d’être à bord du bolide est une attraction en soi. A fond les manettes, nous comprenons maintenant la coiffure de l’un des membres du personnel (effet cheveux dans le vent, dressés sur la tête), « ça décoiffe » ! Mais pour l’instant, la vitesse a plutôt un effet grisant. Nous avons l’impression d’être à la poursuite de pirates ou de faire partie d’un bateau de douanes. Ne manquent plus que le gyrophare et l’alarme.

Les deux portes latérales sont ouvertes pour modérer le mal de mer. Le vent vif nous congèle sur nos sièges, et nous commençons à rebondir de vague en vague. Sensation toujours aussi excitante, même si l’on a quelque peu du mal à fixer notre attention sur l’écran  et sur le guide qui nous offre de nombreuses explications au sujet des baleines. En fait, ce sont la plupart du temps des cachalots qui résident à demeure dans le grand canyon sous-marin de Kaikoura.

Première rencontre

Nous gagnons rapidement le large, au-dessus des failles sous-marines qui se situent à quelques encablures de la côte. Tout à coup, le personnel s’agite, nous sentons que quelque chose se passe. Un cachalot est repéré et en moins de temps qu’il n’en faut, nous sommes tous autorisés à nous rendre sur le pont. Le grand mammifère marin est là, à la surface, et nous apercevons régulièrement les projections qui émanent de son évent. La partie de son corps que nous apercevons à la surface de l’eau est d’une longueur impressionnante, et ce n’est que la partie émergée de l’iceberg ! Nous restons ainsi quelques minutes à l’observer attendant, tous, le moment où il va plonger. Cet instant-là est juste un fascinant spectacle. L’animal laisse alors apparaître une queue massive avant de disparaître dans les profondeurs. Secondes magiques attendues de tous, accompagnées de « oh » et de « ah » échappés au milieu d’un silence émerveillé.

Nous sommes alors en haute mer, et ça secoue ! Difficile dans ces conditions de capturer cette magie en photo ou en film, tout en essayant d’en profiter nous aussi. Mais notre photographe a réussi à capter pour vous, la descente vers les abîmes du colosse. Pour les films, là encore, il va falloir patienter et pour les personnes sujettes au mal de mer, s’abstenir : ça tangue !

L’apparition des clowns de mer

Nous reprenons nos places à bord et la vitesse est toujours au rendez-vous. Cette fois, nous savons ce que sont des creux de deux mètres, et c’est plutôt amusant, même si on est parfois violemment tassés au fond de nos sièges. Nous pouvons voir quelques albatros au travers des vitres, difficile là encore à saisir du bout de l’objectif.

Mais soudain, un, puis deux, puis 10 dauphins apparaissent au milieu des flots. Le bateau fait un crochet, et en deux temps trois mouvements, nous sommes de nouveau sur le pont, au milieu de centaines de gais lurons !

Ce sont des Dusky Dolphins, réputés pour leurs capacités acrobatiques, et pour cause ! De loopings en sauts de vague en vague, ils s’approchent au plus près du bateau et s’amusent à en heurter la coque avec leur queue. Nous ne savons plus où donner de la tête. Marie qui tente de saisir un saut ou une apparition avec sa caméra, finit par prendre le parti de rester statique (même si le bateau ne l’est pas) : ils sont si nombreux qu’il y en a toujours un sur l’écran. C’est la encore un très, très, très grand moment.

Puis nous reprenons place dans la cabine. Les portes sont, cette fois, fermées, la mer est de plus en plus agitée. Nous virevoltons dans les flots en direction d’un deuxième cachalot. Nous sortons en attendant la redescente, les jambes un peu flageolantes au milieu des éléments qui se déchaînent. Cette fois l’animal est plus discret, et nous n’apercevons pas la queue du colosse. En reprenant nos places, certains d’entre nous auraient bien supplié pour retourner à quai, mais déjà le signal est donné, le premier cachalot, que nous avions pu observer, est de nouveau à la surface.


Le coup de grâce

Nous voici de nouveau secoués, ballotés, projetés. Mais cette fois, les vagues nous viennent de côté, et le mal de mer n’est pas loin….les creux de deux mètres nous en paraissent plutôt 4 !  Nous essayons de fixer notre attention tant bien que mal à l’extérieur, afin de garder le cap, tentant d’ignorer le nombre, croissant de minute en minute, de personnes la tête dans le sac….

Une vague nous frappe de plein fouet de côté et la stupeur peut se lire un instant sur les visages. Le plus inquiétant selon Marie, c’est le visage jusqu’alors rieur de notre guide à chaque grosse vague, qui se fige tout à coup. Mais le capitaine a l’air de bien s’amuser, et de maîtriser complètement la situation. Nous voici arrivés à destination. Petit moment difficile à passer pour se tenir sur nos jambes, même l’air frais a bien du mal à nous faire oublier ce bateau qui tangue. Et notre cachalot choisit juste le moment où une grosse vague nous empêche de voir ses capacités de plongeur pour redescendre. Le bateau situé en face de nous aura, quant à lui, plus de chance. Mais nous ne nous attardons pas trop sur son cas qui nous renvoie notre propre condition, balloté comme une feuille morte au milieu des vagues.

Happy End

Dernier come-back en cabine où notre guide nous annonce que nous devrions maintenant nous sentir mieux puisque nous allons tourner le dos au large et rentrer au bercail. Il est vrai que quelques grosses vagues plus loin, l’atmosphère devient plus respirable. Le roulis latéral a disparu, et avec lui, toute sensation inconfortable.

Nous profitons des dernières perceptions liées à la vitesse et nous nous félicitons d’avoir tenu le choc tous les quatre. Nous sortons du bateau, des étoiles plein les yeux, un peu blancs quand même, sans doute dans le même état que les passagers que nous avions croisés en embarquant. Mais le corps ne reflète pas la joie d’avoir pu partager ces trois heures magiques avec nos deux touristes ! Rien que pour ces trois petites heures, Marie est ravie d’avoir fait venir ses parents de si loin en s’exilant ainsi cette année.

Rien de tel après un petit mal de mer qu’un bon resto ! Ce soir, c’est Ludo qui régale au Tuti’s. Nous y rencontrons une serveuse québécoise très sympathique, y goûtons une très bonne soupe de la mer (Sea food chowder), de la langouste, très réputée à Kaikoura, et plein d’autres bonnes choses du large.

La péninsule de Kaikoura

Le jeudi matin, c’est farniente. Le programme des derniers jours nous a un peu épuisés, et si l’enthousiasme nous reprend lorsqu’on évoque la sortie en mer de la veille, la fatigue aussi… on en tangue encore !

L’après-midi, nous voulons partager avec nos compagnons de bord, la vue fantastique qu’offre la péninsule de Kaikoura sur la colonie d’otaries. Mais nous sommes très déçus, les centaines de bestioles qui habitaient les lieux il y a quelques mois ont disparu… sans doute en pêche ou en d’autres lieux. Les Dubois n’auront plus qu’à nous croire sur parole et à se consoler avec les photos prises lors de notre dernier passage.

Seuls quelques énergumènes, et pas des moindres, feront le spectacle. Nous croyons même avoir retrouvé notre star de zèle sur la roche, même clowneries, même très longues moustaches, et même rocher de prédilection.

Que du bon

Après cette après-midi au grand air, nous voilà de nouveau au restaurant, cette fois c’est papa Dubois qui régale au Hislops café.

Le restaurant «  organic » est choisi par le maître jardinier français qui synthétise par son choix, l’esprit Kiwi, de la bonne bouffe bien saine. Ainsi ce soir, pour les hommes c’est agneau néo-zélandais, bio bien-entendu (tout comme la boisson…) et élevé au grand air, cela va de soi. En revanche, le service est plus guindé que la veille.

Contre la montre

Le vendredi matin, le soleil est éclatant. Nous faisons une petite séance photo dans les rues de Kaikoura. Les singeries de Mr Dubois font beaucoup rire les Néo-Zélandaises qui passent par là… Et les Wakatripeurs ont bien du mal à garder les yeux ouverts pour se faire tirer le portrait.

Puis, ayant pris du retard, une course contre la montre s’engage entre la récupération du van à la Food Farm et l’arrivée chez le loueur du camping-car 5 min avant la fermeture…

Nous voici de nouveau à l’aéroport, pour se dire au revoir cette fois… Nous espérons que les quelques mois qui nous séparent du retour en France passeront plus vite pour nos touristes qui peuvent maintenant mettre des images et surtout des souvenirs, sur les lieux que nous fréquentons. Nous restons ravis que grâce (ou à cause de) nous…, ces deux là ont fait le tour du monde en moins de deux semaines pour passer du temps tous ensemble, et nous l’espérons, en ont pris plein les mirettes.


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